Category Archives: Restaurants

A Little Italy in Collingswood

Posted on June 20, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

Sapori – Collingswood, NJ

http://www.sapori.info/

May 2012

Holy Moley Me Oh My!  Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros cannot sing it any better than what I felt after leaving Sapori. To make this review even more exciting, why not find the song and listen to it while you read this.

Chef Franco Lombardo was born in Palermo, Italy and the title of the song lets you know exactly what Chef Franco creates at Sapori  “Home”. Opening a sixty-four seat eatery in an area already heavily populated with Italian restaurants, Collingswood, NJ in 2003 he has recreated a look and feel of his home country Italy here that I am positive is the envy of many interior decorators wishing they could do the same. The only problem is that I am embarrassed to admit that it took me until now to find this oasis of Italy in the Philadelphia region.

Having one of the most amazing authentic Italian meals ever in the States while dining here, I will not even try to explain the explosions of fresh flavors my mouth was able to experience. My party went on a Wednesday evening and decided for Chef Franco to cook us his chef’s tasting menu, which he prepares with only the freshest ingredients that very day, so for me to fawn over what I had as great as it was, I may or may not have that again for my next tasting menu. The entrees went from special stuffed olives, fresh Italian cheeses and meats, an absolutely beautiful rendition of polenta with chickpeas that everyone should make this way instead of cornmeal, fabulous sardines that even converted others at the table who stated they hated sardines, pasta with sea urchins that arrived just an hour or two before we arrived which was the highlight of the menu for me creating a taste I have been craving ever since, one of the best rabbit meals ever served, and then he topped it off with a dessert dish that could make a baker blush with his unbelievably tasty treats.

Chef Franco is an artist in the kitchen, a charming gentleman to meet as he comes to the table occasionally to make sure everything is delicious, and the perfect host by welcoming friends into the beautiful home he has built and wanting you to come back again soon for his next great culinary creation. It took me nine years to come here the first time, but yet I felt like I lost my way from where I truly belong only 9 seconds after leaving Sapori. Chef Franco has created home, and somewhere I will call home much more frequently, so I hope he is ready for more houseguests.

Five out of Five Stars

For more info on the song I quoted and band mentioned:

http://edwardsharpeandthemagneticzeros.com/

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Italian South Jersey Style

Posted on May 13, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

Arugula, Sewell NJ

http://arugularestaurant.net/

04-07-2012

Transforming a space previously held by a Mexican restaurant into a modern Italian restaurant is no easy task. Chefs Nicholas Tomasetto and Stefano Gervas have settled into the former space occupied by San Miguel quite nicely by creating a sleek and hip feel felt immediately upon stepping foot into Arugula. It is not perfect though, as I have a major complaint about the décor. The area in question is the design at the front of the restaurant where tables for two are present that gives Arugula a furniture style befitting 0001 Cemetery Lane where the Addams Family resides. Gomez and Morticia would be the only two people who could reasonably sit at these odd and quirky chairs for dinner. Thankfully coming with three other patrons, the Bluejeanfoodcritic was saved from the possible embarrassment and seated at a regular table, but I could not stop looking at this abnormality.

I started the evening with two appetizers, the Fritto Misto and Blue Bay Mussels. The Fritto Misto was good, not great, and certainly not worth fourteen dollars. At fourteen dollars a restaurant is pushing the envelope into entrée prices, and this is not easily forgivable unless the appetizer creates an unforgettable experience which this dish did not. Fritto Misto advertised to include zucchini, shrimp, and calamari. I will start by saying the shrimp included were perfectly cooked and generous in size, but in contrast the zucchini was practically nonexistent with only three microscopic slices put on top of the dish, while the calamari was rubbery and overcooked. Arugula saved itself once the Blue Bay Mussels arrived though. The Blue Bay Mussels not only changed my mood after the disappointing Fritto Misto, it had me do an about-face and is so good it exalted Arugula into a culinary contender. The portion size of mussels was glorious, while providing a perfectly balanced and slightly spicy broth that was enjoyed so thoroughly, it took sopping up two servings of Italian bread in the broth until not a drop of broth was left. YUM! FYI – picture below I could not wait to eat before the picture was taken, so this was not exactly how it came.

Apps at Arugula

Unfortunately this extreme high did not last long once my main dish was served.  Ordered was the grilled scallop on top of a short rib infused risotto. The scallops were good, but I was extremely disappointed having received only three tiny scallops on a twenty-four dollar entrée. The small dollop of short rib infused risotto did nothing to improve its chance of redemption either. The short rib was bland tasting, while the risotto was overcooked as well. This was too bad as after the Blue Bay Mussels, I wanted to fall in love with Arugula, not just like it.

Main Course

The problems experienced at Arugula are in sloppy or rushed preparation of the meal, and easily fixed if they can focus on their style and execution. I really believe their vision of a modern Italian restaurant is easily attainable and almost all of the elements to achieve this goal are present. They are just missing that “IT” factor right now, and if they can find “IT” they will become dangerous to the bottom line of other food establishments. Once “IT” is obtained they will become the oasis in a desert of unoriginal restaurant choices in the surrounding area they serve. Maybe one day when the waiter walks up to the odd chairs at the front of the establishment, Cousin Itt will be seated there with the answer.

Do I recommend for you to go to Arugula if in the area? Yes

 

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Visit the Promised Land – Zahav

Posted on February 25, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

Zahav, Philadelphia PA

http://www.zahavrestaurant.com/

02-03-2012

Authenticity is what one looks for after traveling to a foreign country whether in cuisine or in mindset. This is exactly what happened to me after visiting the Mediterranean region for over a month this past year. After going from place to place trying to find those tastes and feelings again, my taste buds began to reject what most restaurants in America claim as Mediterranean cuisine. After visiting Zahav in Philadelphia, I have found the Promised Land. 

Immediately upon opening Zahav’s doors, familiar scents and tranquil vibes automatically transport you back to the Mediterranean. Once seated, a quick glance of Zahav shows an eclectic crowd that would be the envy of any restaurateur. After taking a peek at the menu, the mixed crowd is not due to Zahav making dishes that appeal to all palates, but instead because its menu is exciting and uncompromising. They put ingredients native to the Mediterranean and give them a brilliant contemporary twist and flavor. After having the five course tasting menu with particular highlights Fried Sweetbreads and Crispy Branzino, I was thoroughly impressed. The preparation and execution of the plates at Zahav is impeccable.

During the meal Zahav Manager, Eilon Gigi, came to make sure the evening was flawless. He created a welcome feeling not felt in most establishments, and after pleasantries proved another reason why the authenticity at Zahav is difficult to beat. With the Bluejeanfoodcritic having an upcoming trip to Israel, he personally wrote down a list of restaurants to try while I was in Tel Aviv. It is difficult to get recommendations for places to eat in Philadelphia let alone half a world away. I commend him for this and as such he is an irreplaceable asset to Zahav for that experience alone. 

Zahav-Philadelphia has had its share of media coverage, so this review is nothing new. You can say that eating here deserves two thumbs up, four bells, or any combination of grading system you can think of. All I know is any way you slice it Zahav is the pinnacle of Mediterranean dining on the East Coast, period. 

Five out of Five Stars

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Hunter S. Thompson meets The Rat Pack

Posted on February 8, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

Steak 38, Cherry Hill NJ

January 2012

http://steak38cafe.com/

Hunter S. Thompson once said “Anything worth doing, is worth doing right.” Steak 38 owner Joe DiAmore’s ‘claim to fame’ is first-class, table-side service for Caesar salad, fish de-boning, meat carving and the ever-popular Bananas Foster at his restaurant. Mixing these two mottos is what created Steak 38. Joe DiAmore and Benji Blumberg of the original Barnacle Ben’s Seafood restaurant have joined forces for Steak 38 after a brief stint of this establishment having closed its doors. This tag team of powerhouse chefs puts over 60 years combined of restaurant experience at the helm and it shows.

Steak 38 does not easily endear itself as you pull into a parking lot of a motel that looks more accustomed to renting rooms by the hour instead of housing a restaurant. After stepping inside Steak 38 the décor does not do this place any favors either. It is not because the décor is appalling; it is just extremely old fashioned. This eatery is an enigma in this age of trendy restaurant concepts by not selling out and catering to the Hipsters, Posh Rittenhousers,Cherry Hill– Voorhees Elitists, Haddonfield Hobnobbers, or Phila-Jersey Foodies. Steak 38 is only interested in maintaining the atmosphere that Joe DiAmore opened this place with over 30 years ago, and that is what I like about it. This is one of the few places where a call to Marty McFly to fire up the DeLorean is not needed, as the past has gracefully melded with the present.

In order to fully appreciate Steak 38, you must embrace it. To do so, it is recommended to show a little early with friends and have a cocktail or two at the bar. While getting close to the end of your second drink, I think you will see and feel the transformation inside you from the old Italian music playing and pictures surrounding the place. Oddly, I showed up with John Smith and Jane Doe, but now I am having drinks with Sammy Davis Jr. and Dean Martin. In a flash, the time has come to be seated, and who is this telling us where to sit, could it be, I think it is, Frank Sinatra. Now that the entire Rat Pack is here, I know I’m in good hands.

As soon as you are seated, waiters bring out warm bread accompanied with fresh roasted peppers. I am happy these came complimentary, as they are so tasty; I had three servings of it. The meal starts out with Snapper Soup, and I can not remember the last time I have had a tastier version. The meat is so gracefully placed throughout the soup and flavors with just the right amount of intensity that the bowl does not stay filled for long. While looking around to make sure no mafia hits will be placed while I am dining, the main course finally arrives in all of its glory, Prime Rib. This incarnation of Prime Rib is delicious and cooked to medium temperature perfection. I know of many high end steak houses that should come here just for a lesson of how to really cook and serve Prime Rib. The outside perimeter of the steak has the tasty fat, flame broiled crispy, while the meat inside is so tender I do not even have to use my steak knife until halfway through the dish. Joining the steak as an afterthought is delectable thin sliced onion rings and a twice-baked potato that does not harm the dish in any way, but also does not enhance it greatly. The shining star is the Prime Rib. One would assume that the culinary show is over, but at Steak 38, this is not true if one orders Bananas Foster. Your dessert is wheeled out table-side to be created flambé. After the fireworks of your dish being created are done, all one can do is dig in and taste the milky, sugary, and liquored treat till the bowl is empty.

Steak 38 is a gift from the past I wish a couple more businesses could learn from. Everything does not need to be hip, new, or experimental. Also, I am not pontificating that Steak 38 has no faults. It is just nice to see that some people stick to their ideals and ambitions regardless of the world changing around them, and for that you must respect them. Now if only Joe DiAmore and Benji Blumberg can tell me where they buried Jimmy Hoffa, I can leave here knowing all of their secrets.

Four out of Five stars

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Mo Money for Mo Pho – Roundeye Noodle

Posted on January 31, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

Roundeye Noodle, Philadelphia PA

http://www.roundeyenoodle.com/

01-29-2012

With an electric buzz surrounding the Rittenhouse district, we descend upon Roundeye Noodle’s pop-up location.

The restaurant was with filled to capacity within minutes of doors opening with the anticipation of a flavor extravaganza displayed on the menu. Roundeye Noodle did not disappoint with its beginning palate pleaser of Broccoli with Vietnamese Sausage. Present were little light broccoli bites with a freshness emanating from the dish, while the spiciness of the sausage added the flair needed to impress.

The main dish of Pork Belly Ramen put one of Asia’s noodle specialties with a crossover appeal, within reach. Diners were easily able to understand what would be in the dish; as opposed to being surprised because of a less than perfectly translated menu, like those you find in many authentic Asian noodle places. The combination of ingredients created a well designed Ramen, and my companion replied that it made her feel awake after eating here.

This was the first trial for Roundeye Noodle and I would say it was a success. The event was set-up to attract prospective investors. Hopefully the customers they served will agree and put their money where their mouth is, in Roundeye Noodle’s product.

06-02-20-13

Due to a name controversy from the Asian Community, partners chef Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh changed name to Cheu Noodle Bar and are no longer doing pop-ups, they have opened up a real restaurant now in Philadelphia. Good Luck!

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Porcini, Philadelphia PA

Posted on January 17, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

Porcini Restaurant, Philadelphia PA

http://www.porcinirestaurant.com/

01-07-2012

The minute I step foot into Porcini in Philadelphia, PA I immediately became very close friends with twenty-five people. This is not because of my magnetic personality or being such a social butterfly that everyone automatically loves the Bluejeanfoodcritic, but because Porcini is literally that small of a restaurant. I believe owners and brothers Steven and David Sansome may have been voted one of Philadelphia’s most romantic restaurants only by default. As one will experience when you go, the space is so tiny and your mouth so close to whoever comes with you, that you can not help but kiss them whenever your lips move.

So what does Porcini mean? The Italian Food Guide writer Kyle Phillips described Porcini as one of God’s great gifts to humanity; a rich, heady, meaty mushroom that is amazingly versatile and delicate enough to give grace to an elegant stew or sauce.

That should tell you at least one item on the menu Porcini Restaurant in Philadelphia should be able to do right. With precision, they treat the mushroom with just as much elegance as described by Kyle Phillips. I started out with the Funghi Nere. It was prepared with exotic mushrooms topped with Asiago cheese and white wine. The first bite created a taste one would assume could only come from meticulous tinkering in the kitchen until Chef Steven Sansome yelled out with his Frankenstein creation “It’s alive”. Chef Sansome all I can say is your vision on this dish works and not having this dish, one would do themselves a disservice. I apologize for not getting a picture of this dish, but unfortunately the Bluejeanfoodcritic was temporarily overwhelmed with technical difficulties and had to consume the dish before the food got cold and technical issue was resolved.

The main dish was called Capasante. It was Seared diver scallops with crispy leeks in white lemon and organic thyme. I almost went back into the kitchen myself to see if Chef Sansome has a tank filled with fresh mollusks as I can not remember the last time I have had scallops so fresh and tasty. I almost thought the dish was mounds of butter sculpted to look like scallops as they just melted in my mouth. The dish was accompanied by mashed potatoes and fresh herb seasoned string beans which fit it perfectly.

Porcini Philadelphia is a byob with very reasonable prices and excellent personalized service which is energized by Maitre d’ David Sansome. Upon entering, he welcomes you like family coming into is home for a dinner party, all the while zig zagging his way around tight spaces like a cruise missile. Without David the experience would be nowhere near as enjoyable. This is a great place for a night out as the intimate nature really comes out due to the size of the restaurant as it truly does create a special atmosphere. The Bluejeanfoodcritic was very pleased. The only gripe would be the portion size of the Funghi Nere and the small serving of sides accompanying my Capasante should have been larger as this restaurant is billed as serving entrees, not a tasting menu. A small infraction, but it was accounted into the rating. Go here and enjoy yourself a lovely evening.

 

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New Years Eve 2011 – M Restaurant, Philadelphia PA

Posted on January 10, 2012 by Bluejeanfood

M Restaurant –Philadelphia,Pa

http://www.mrestaurantphilly.com

12-31-11

The always revolving dilemma of how to celebrate the end of one year and embrace the start of a new one brings us to New Years Eve 2011. Go out with style eating bangers and mash like a dainty English Queen, bratwurst it up jolly with all the beer thirsty Germans, or try that very suspicious looking animal in the Asian restaurant they are calling duck, but we all know better. No, we have it; we shall go into 2012 as pretentious busy bodies that will eat our way into prosperity. So it is settled, we shall eat French food. With that we descend upon M Restaurant in Philadelphia that has just received Chef Aaron Bellizzi from famed restaurant Le Cirque after the much too quick departure of brilliant Chef Michael Caspi leaving this Center City location with a void of nothingness to fill and quick.

As those of you who know the Bluejeanfoodcritic, he may not know all of the ingredients he digests, but will do his best to describe the adventure with everyone. We start the night with a titillating palate warm up with an egg mixture, topped with trout roe and a spice of some sort. This was by far our least favorite dish, but oddly enough, the splashes of saltiness coming from the trout roe popping in one’s mouth did get our mouth watering for more. So it could not have been that bad.

Now we move to our cheese plate. If my memory was good enough to remember the names of the three cheeses I digested, you would have spotted the Bluejeanfoodcritic earlier in life winning spelling bee championships, but sadly we will just stick to the story of having had three cheeses. Unfortunately describing the dish so plainly does a gigantic disservice to what I experienced, and what I experienced was close to resembling an out-of-body experience. The French know what they are doing with cheeses, and M Restaurant does it with fantastic flair. The only way to describe it would be to simply say, try it for oneself at M.

Our meal courses finally started with soup called Sunchoke Soup. It should be renamed take a sip of this and you will want to run outside and scream “Holy S#*+, I have just had the best soup I have ever tasted in my life”. By no means am I a soup person at all. Sure I enjoy a good soup to start a meal just as much as the next person, but this was the moment in my life that I have realized it is time for me to search soup out. The ingredients were pumpernickel, citrus cured salmon, capers, and red onion. Do you agree when you read that does it yell out eat me, oh course not, but this was the highlight of the night.

Moving on, we then had Oxtail Terrine. That was oxtail, charred scallions, and parsnip puree. The Oxtail was delicious as the slow cooked delight shined with the mix of the charred scallions sublimely put inside the layers. The following course was Lobster North Atlantic which consisted of bisque, grapefruit, wild rice, and salsify. I was really looking forward to this dish and it did not disappoint except for the grapefruit. I do not know the culinary explanation of why that was added to this dish, but it was easily removed. It was a lobster tail cooked to perfection with an entire claw to go with it; kudos M Restaurant.

The main dish moment finally arrives. Filet Mignon with conifers, turnips, cheddar gremolata, and jus placed in front of us with all of its glory. The filet is cooked to perfection with natural juices just oozing from every side. The cheddar gremolata topping was just heavenly. Able to cut through the dish with just a fork, each bite was savored just as much as the last with the vegetables accompanying the dish perfect. We could not have scripted a better New Years Eve setting for dinner. Now the time to wind down has come as we have reached our limit of food, but M Restaurant does not tone down the theme of bold dish after bold dish to kick off 2012. We end the night with Pear Panna Cotta that was created with poached and pickled pear with ginger lime streusel and pear foam. Chef Aaron Bellizzi must have Harry Potter blood flowing through his veins having learned the skill of Transfiguration from Professor McGonagall by turning ordinary pear parts into an extraordinary dessert. The foam just melted in our mouths with the tart pickled pear putting just the right amount of tingle in our taste buds to be able to pack it all in and depart.

The night at M Restaurant was a complete success with 5 out of 5 stars followed by an amazing display of fireworks put on the Delaware River waterfront at Penns Landing. Welcome 2012 and we bid adieu to 2011. May great things continue in the new year as a great meal has started it. The Bluejeanfoodcritic looks forward to this year being filled with tastes and events we all can fondly remember.

M Restaurant, Philadelphia PA

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